Since I had no use for them, I used the rims from heads that
came with the toms I purchased. I removed the heads from the
rims with a utility knife.
If you don't have any drum head rims. 1/4 copper tubing
will work. 20' for $11.00.
I made a template with a router using a 1/4 bit. I cut a
groove 1/4 deep and the diameter of the copper I would be using.
Then just push the copper tubing into the groove, mark and cut
with a copper tubing cutter.
I picked up a 48 x 80 roll of fiberglass window screen
from Menards. Cut out squares about an 2" wider than the rim.
Trimmed of the excess so it would be easier to work with.
Laid the two layers of fiberglass window screen over the
drum hoop and pushed drum head rim into the drum hoop.
Wrapped and tied string around the drum hoop and rim to
temporarily hold it all together. It made the sewing easier.
Another good way to hold it all together using binder
clips.
I used heavy thread for sewing leather material. The tan
color showed up better in the tutorial images. Comes in black
also.
Not sure what type of stitch I'm using. I just went back
and forth every 1/4" and sewed the screen onto the rim. Took
about 10 min.
I trimmed off more of the excess screen getting pretty
close to the stitches.
This is top view. I colored the tan stitches black with a
marker. Black thread would look nicer.
I put the mesh head on the drum and laid on two more
layers of window screen. Tighten down the lugs. I noticed the
more layers you put on the less the rebound is.
Update: Another option is
to add one layer of SuperScreen over the fiberglass window
screen. I use 20 x17 tiny mesh SuperScreen.
Trim off the excess window screen. I'm sure the screen
will wear at some point. When the top two layers start to wear
out. I can easily replace them and won't have to re-stitch new
screen to the rim.
To me, the window screen mesh heads feel great and are
much quieter than the Roland mesh head on the Roland PD85
